A Perfect Day in the Vercors
Monday 5 April 2010, Easter Sunday – a perfect day in the Vercors for 4 very different Aussie cyclists. The very fit but inexperienced Alex 13 and Edward 14, veteran cyclist Andrew 47 and Mama Cas 46 - enthusiastic but unprepared!
Intensely intoxicating! The combination of cycling and spectacular scenery is intensely intoxicating in the French south east alpine region of the Vercors . It packs more punch per square km of rock than just about anywhere and there’s a lot of rock! Enough mountains to “blow your brains” out and yet safe and varied enough for our family of very different cycling abilities to experience the very best of exhilarating European biking all day everyday for weeks. From snow capped mountains to lush green valleys of walnut groves. I just couldn’t stop smiling.
We have come in April, very much the shoulder season. Don’t let it deter you! Cold and bright days, spring is here, snow on the hills and daffodils in the valleys. The gites (French for self catered cottage) are clean, bright and French provincial, in white and terracotta and that bright blue that is so very French and rural. Small but well equipped and good value for four at less than $87 AUS a night. Bike hire was about $25 AUS per day per bike. For us travelling from Australia, hiring was a better option than worrying about internationally shipping four bikes! There is a locked shed for the bikes and good maps from our hosts and a great supply of local knowledge in English!
The day dawned bright and clear and we ate breakfast (lots of carbohydrates) and set off at leisure, about 10am. Our hosts Teresa and Roger (former pro rider) asked to join us and we were delighted to have them along with their intimate knowledge of the region... there’s a very good reason they have set up “shop” in the Vercors.
We had planned a more ambitious tour for this day, in consultation with the new map and Roger the night before. And while the sun shone brightly in the valley, Roger advised we take warm gear for the descents. This route of approximately 50 km would take us up into the snowline with over 1000m of climbing to Col De Carrie at 1215m with a halfway stop for crepes and coffee/hot chocolates at La Chapelle en-Vercors.
With our hosts joining us we split into two groups, the guys and gals, to allow the boys to stretch their legs. We would meet in La Chapelle, conveniently, about half way. The great thing about cycling here (as opposed to Australia) is there’s a village every 5km – 10km (as opposed to 50-100km) and coffee and food. Our habit of taking food is still a good one, but not so necessary here.
The route was St Laurent, Ste Eulalie en Royans, then climbing gradually through the petits Goulets, a series of tunnels carved from the limestone rock, with water dripping from the roof and the road clinging to the mountain side.
The weather was perfect, sunny and about 10 degrees Celsius. The daffodils and wild flowers were all popping out from green meadows and the sun was shining. The French rural people where out in their fields and gardens. Bonjour! Despite the snow on the high limestone cliffs it was hot as we climbed towards Les Barraques en-Verors. We climbed up a valley with spectacular towering limestone cliffs on each side.
Just before Les Barraques is the Grand Goulets, another series of spectacular tunnels and gravity defining roads clinging to the mountainside that are sadly now closed and replaced with a 1.6km tunnel of soul destroying engineering safety. The tunnel climbs steadily and spills out into Les Barraques with a hotel and high alpine fields full of flowers around gurgling streams, again it is very pretty, almost overwhelming picture postcards. Have your camera ready! Although cold, the steady climb keeps you toasty warm! And at La Chapelle en Vercors the promise of crepes and hot chocolates and coffee kept me going up the hills.
La Chapelle is so very cute, rows of buildings in limestone with coloured shutters, old trees, and food! It is high and cold and I was glad of our warm gear. I was last to arrive and christened “Captain Slow” by the boys who had already happily consumed piles of nutella crepes and hot drinks. They had loved the climb and where keen to set out again. Alex decided to cycle with us and so we left again as two parties of 3 each, one stronger group to cycle ahead. Luckily, I had no idea what was next!
The climb to Col de Carrie, a ski resort at 1200m, is a zig zag of steady climbing to finish in the snow! While my legs ached the scenery was so delightfully distracting that I hardly noticed my protesting knees, sore bum and grasping lungs. The cold air, snow dusted conifirs and incredible views just kept you turning the wheels. And Teresa very kindly rode with me and with her encouraging presence... I made it...It really didn’t matter that I wasn’t fit, it was a fantastic ride. At the top, rolling snails with the sticky spring snow was Alex complaining he’s been waiting hours! A nice picture opportunity with the sign Col De Carrie! And a break to look at the mountains and whoppee! We are at the top..... but the best was still to come!
The descent. Through winding roads, snow and fir. The traffic is so light and respectful of cyclists in a nation obsessed with the sport that I had no worries with our young inexperienced cyclists. Watching Alex descend even with precarious precipices on the roadside, I felt he was very safe and capable.
We had needlessly worried about hiring bikes. We were all on brand new Treks, the boys on road bikes and I had a nice comfortable hybrid. The boys have 3 chain rings and nine gears on the back and 3 on the front. The boys were thrilled with their bikes.
As the snow decreased we came past Col de Machine 1011m and then the fir clad road suddenly opens up into the Combe Laval which is a spectacular steep sided valley opening up to the world below. Again the road clings to the mountain side which drops vertically hundreds of metres below. Hundreds of metres of vertical limestone towers above as you pass through tunnels and tors and hurtle down at whatever speed you can handle. I would advise caution as the drop is unforgiving! Exhilarating it was, freezing cold too as the wind lashes tears from your eyes! We stopped to look and take photos and recover a few times, the views are worth the pause. And way below you can see St Jean en Royans and it’s an easy roll home.
All up the ride took 5 hours for me at a very leisurely pace. The boys probably took 2.5hours of riding and lots of stops waiting for me! What was extremely amazing was that such a pack of diverse cyclist could enjoy the one day together!
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The combination of stunning scenery and exhilarating cycle riding is intoxicating. Teresa and Roger have cycled extensively through Europe and set up here because it offers the best. Now we know! Safe, well maintained roads, tours that can be as challenging or easy as you want and scenery, omg. From cute villages to towering mountains. With all this, plus new hire bikes! How perfect can it be? Add fantastic local gourmet cuisine, words are insufficient for the fun to be had...it’s great to be here and soon as people know, there will be crowds, but right now it is undisturbed, undiscovered, uncrowded and perfect for those dreaming of cycling France.
Castaly Lombe
Monday 5 April 2010, Easter Sunday – a perfect day in the Vercors for 4 very different Aussie cyclists. The very fit but inexperienced Alex 13 and Edward 14, veteran cyclist Andrew 47 and Mama Cas 46 - enthusiastic but unprepared!
Intensely intoxicating! The combination of cycling and spectacular scenery is intensely intoxicating in the French south east alpine region of the Vercors . It packs more punch per square km of rock than just about anywhere and there’s a lot of rock! Enough mountains to “blow your brains” out and yet safe and varied enough for our family of very different cycling abilities to experience the very best of exhilarating European biking all day everyday for weeks. From snow capped mountains to lush green valleys of walnut groves. I just couldn’t stop smiling.
We have come in April, very much the shoulder season. Don’t let it deter you! Cold and bright days, spring is here, snow on the hills and daffodils in the valleys. The gites (French for self catered cottage) are clean, bright and French provincial, in white and terracotta and that bright blue that is so very French and rural. Small but well equipped and good value for four at less than $87 AUS a night. Bike hire was about $25 AUS per day per bike. For us travelling from Australia, hiring was a better option than worrying about internationally shipping four bikes! There is a locked shed for the bikes and good maps from our hosts and a great supply of local knowledge in English!
The day dawned bright and clear and we ate breakfast (lots of carbohydrates) and set off at leisure, about 10am. Our hosts Teresa and Rodger (former pro rider) asked to join us and we were delighted to have them along with their intimate knowledge of the region... there’s a very good reason they have set up “shop” in the Vercors.
We had planned a more ambitious tour for this day, in consultation with the new map and Roger the night before. And while the sun shone brightly in the valley, Rodger advised we take warm gear for the descents. This route of approximately 50 km would take us up into the snowline with over 1000m of climbing to Col De Carrie at 1215m with a halfway stop for crepes and coffee/hot chocolates at La Chapelle en-Vecors.
With our hosts joining us we split into two groups, the guys and gals, to allow the boys to stretch their legs. We would meet in La Chapelle, conveniently, about half way. The great thing about cycling here (as opposed to Australia) is there’s a village every 5km – 10km (as opposed to 50-100km) and coffee and food. Our habit of taking food is still a good one, but not so necessary here.
The route was St Laurent, Ste Eulalie en Royans, then climbing gradually through the pits Goulets, a series of tunnels carved from the limestone rock, with water dripping from the roof and the road clinging to the mountain side.
The weather was perfect, sunny and about 10 degrees Celsius. The daffodils and wild flowers were all popping out from green meadows and the sun was shining. The French rural people where out in their fields and gardens. Bonjour! Despite the snow on the high limestone cliffs it was hot as we climbed towards Les Barraques en-Verors. We climbed up a valley with spectacular towering limestone cliffs on each side.
Just before Les Barraques is the Grand Goulets, another series of spectacular tunnels and gravity defining roads clinging to the mountainside that are sadly now closed and replaced with a 1.6km tunnel of soul destroying engineering safety. The tunnel climbs steadily and spills out into Les Barraques with a hotel and high alpine fields full of flowers around gurgling streams, again it is very pretty, almost overwhelming picture postcards. Have your camera ready! Although cold, the steady climb keeps you toasty warm! And at La Chapelle en Vercors the promise of crepes and hot chocolates and coffee kept me going up the hills.
La Chapelle is so very cute, rows of buildings in limestone
with coloured shutters, old trees, and food! It is high and cold and I was glad
of our warm gear. I was last to arrive and christened “Captain Slow” by the boys
who had already happily consumed piles of nutella crepes and hot drinks. They
had loved the climb and where keen to set out again. Alex decided to cycle with
us and so we left again as two parties of 3 each, one stronger group to cycle
ahead. Luckily, I had no idea what was next!
The climb to Col de Carrie, a ski resort at 1200m, is a zig zag of steady climbing to finish in the snow! While my legs ached the scenery was so delightfully distracting that I hardly noticed my protesting knees, sore bum and grasping lungs. The cold air, snow dusted conifirs and incredible views just kept you turning the wheels. And Teresa very kindly rode with me and with her encouraging presence... I made it...It really didn’t matter that I wasn’t fit, it was a fantastic ride. At the top, rolling snails with the sticky spring snow was Alex complaining he’s been waiting hours! A nice picture opportunity with the sign Col De Carrie! And a break to look at the mountains and whoppee! We are at the top..... but the best was still to come!
The descent. Through winding roads, snow and fir. The traffic is so light and respectful of cyclists in a nation obsessed with the sport that I had no worries with our young inexperienced cyclists. Watching Alex descend even with precarious precipices on the roadside, I felt he was very safe and capable.
We had needlessly worried about hiring bikes. We were all on brand new Treks, the boys on road bikes and I had a nice comfortable hybrid. The boys have 3 chain rings and nine gears on the back and 3 on the front. The boys were thrilled with their bikes.
As the snow decreased we came past Col de Machine
1011m and then the fir clad road suddenly opens up into the Combe Laval which is
a spectacular steep sided valley opening up to the world below. Again the road
clings to the mountain side which drops vertically hundreds of metres below.
Hundreds of metres of vertical limestone towers above as you pass through
tunnels and tors and hurtle down at whatever speed you can handle. I would
advise caution as the drop is unforgiving! Exhilarating it was, freezing cold
too as the wind lashes tears from your eyes! We stopped to look and take
photos and recover a few times, the views are worth the pause. And way below you
can see St Jean en Royans and it’s an easy roll home.
All up the ride took 5 hours for me at a very leisurely pace. The boys probably took 2.5hours of riding and lots of stops waiting for me! What was extremely amazing was that such a pack of diverse cyclist could enjoy the one day together!
The combination of stunning scenery and exhilarating cycle riding is intoxicating. Teresa and Rodger have cycled extensively through Europe and set up here because it offers the best. Now we know! Safe, well maintained roads, tours that can be as challenging or easy as you want and scenery, omg. From cute villages to towering mountains. With all this, plus new hire bikes! How perfect can it be? Add fantastic local gourmet cuisine, words are insufficient for the fun to be had...it’s great to be here and soon as people know, there will be crowds, but right now it is undisturbed, undiscovered, uncrowded and perfect for those dreaming of cycling France.
Castaly Lombe